2012年4月30日星期一

Portraits Reinterpreted

>> Famed still life photographer Peter Lippmann has collaborated with Christian Louboutin a number of times on campaigns, exploiting his still life set-up expertise.  I found the Flemish-style still lifes with shoes strewn over tables with goblets, grapes and skulls impressive in their execution and mimicry of those types of paintings.  It was also interesting to see that the shoe was not purposely made to be the centre of attention in the arrangements of objects.  Here, we have another Lippmann x Louboutin collaboration, with a series of portraits inspired by iconic and notably diverse pieces of art,beats solo headphones, all meant to celebrate different facets of femininity.  Each A/W 11-12 Louboutin shoe or accesory worked into the portrait also ties in with the character of the painting as well as the woman depicted. 

Re-enactment of famous artworks in a fashion editorial context isn't anything new of course but there's a certain distinct lushness that Lippmann brings to the portraits, and it is clear that he is interested in capturing the light and certain characteristics of the original paintings in his photographs as opposed to creating straight forward replicas.  There is also the surreal aspect of seeing a Louboutin shoe in say an 15th century Renaissance portrait or on Whistler's mother's lap (though that painting is well up there in the 'Most Photoshopped' chart) but it's quite interesting to see when more traditionally symbolic or allegorical items such as a cross or a skull has been replaced by those famous red-sole shoes - something that the legions of women who worship at the alter of Louboutin won't have a problem with. 

Benoist Marie Guillermine née Laville-Leroulx,portrait d'une négresse,Louvre Marie-Guilleme Benoit - "Portrait d’une Negresse"

Pictured with the nappa leather and patent Balda bootie. 

 

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Y-painting1-popup Jean Baptiste-Camille Corot - "Portrait of a Girl"

Pictured with the Halte black patent shoe. 

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The Penitent Magdalen, 1638-43, by Georges de la TourGeorges de la Tour - "Magdalene and the Flame"

Pictured with the Puck boot.

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ElizabethAustria Francois Clouet - "Elizabeth of Austria"

Pictured with the Madame au Pigalili gold spiked platform shoe and Catalina sequined clutch

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1007328Jean-Marc Nattier - "Marquise D'Antin"

Pictured with the Artemis shoulder feathered bag.

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Francisco de Zurbaran-768745Francisco De Zurbaran - "Saint Dorothy"

Pictured with the 8 Mignons purple sandals with a specchio fabric detailing on the instep. 

 

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690px-whistler-mother_lgJames McNeil Whistler -  "Whistler's Mother"

Pictured with the Tootsie roccia leather ankle boot with laser etched pony panelling and geoemtric studded piping.  

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Credits : Photography Peter Lippmann, Concept Jerome Gonford, Styling Catherine Gorne, Prop Styling Annie Bodin, Hair/Make-Up Jean Pierre Canavate,beats headphones review, Casting Olivier Duperrin, Art Direction Jeffrey Blunden,handbags outlet, Models Trissan Polas, Sterenn Nogues, Karom Kelly lippmann, Lia Catreux, Francoise de Stael and Karen Assayag, Retouching Patrick Toulomond and Lillian Joy, Printers Fot Paris & Print Model)

2012年4月29日星期日

Out of Sync

,Replica Sideways Sunglasses

I'll be bunging up more of the Bon x Me vids where I probed pretty much all of the fashion designers at Stockholm Fashion Week with a scary mic that I got just a little bit too attached to.  Sadly Tim Blanks I am not, so I'm mighty glad to relinquish it and get back to London with my ten fingers' ability to type only.  I mentioned in the Altewai Saome post that there was another designer that stuck a finger up at Swedish fashion convention.

If you quickly glance through Nhu Duong's latest S/S 12 collection here, you're gonna be scratching your head and wondering what to make of it all.  Where's the unifying theme?  The semblance of order?  This young designer's background as the daughter of a Vietnamese kung fu master and seamstress who then moved to Sweden makes for good writing fodder but what's even more interesting is her design trajectory.  From one collection to another,discount coach handbags, it's clear she's still trying to solidify her aesthetic.  Her last collection which I saw off-schedule was probably her most cohesive - digital photo prints, inspired by the mass of self-published oddness you can find on Google Images.  It's as though she wanted to challenge and reboot herself as a designer for her next collection though which is why you might be slightly puzzled looking through the images. 

Entitled 'Coding Collection', the accompanying press release is purposely cryptic - "The coding collection explores the pattern that cannot be copied.  The reality of fast-fashion retail coshing ends where the fiction of the mistake starts."   I don't think I need to necessarily try and understand exactly this 'code' of hers but I'm guessing her intention is to try and buck the trend of designing things that can be easily reproduced from a design perspective by fast fashion retailing.  It's difficult after all, to pick up trend buzz words that are corporate moodbood-worthy when you have everything from wide legged combat trousers to sporty parkas in neon pink to woven black leather jackets to a dress made of Little Mermaid iridescent lame fabric to a demure strapless number that harks back to 1990s Calvin Klein.  Nhu Duong herself is a bit of an unreadable enigma emerging from the show wearing an t-shirt with Aaliyah on it and a pair of neon orange twisted trousers. 

Duong maintains that these thematic/aesthetic jumps are all part of her own natural progression, something that she 'feels' and isn't planned out from the onset.  I'll take that 'F-U' to neatly themed and orderly collections and instead focus on the things that I'm drawn to - the refreshed white t-shirt  with sleeves that are reinforced and stiffened to give a deliberate anti-fit, the aforementioned combat pants made out of a polythene material that look like a souped up version of the ones we all bought into circa. All Saints (the band,cheap monster beats headphones, not the brand), the dress that makes cheapie market stall lame look extremely expensive as it has also been punched with detailing and the printed dress that has touches of her last collection with sunset sky prints combined with a wrap-over skirt piped with leather. 

To point out the specific things i like about the collection doesn't quite sum up why I like Nhu Duong's collection as a whole.  As with Altewai Saome though, the important thing is that I've got buckets full of intrigue to see what happens next even if I haven't quite cracked Duong's code.

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2012年4月28日星期六

Worn Down

>> I promise there will be something far more weighty and show-related coming soon but with a lot of the collections I loved, i'll be revisiting showrooms and looking at things up close to really grasp the gist of things so hopefully you guys can be patient and not think I'm swanning about shows scoffing canapes (well, there was a lemon risotto and fennel had at the Topshop venue... and may be a scone or two too...).

Actually, wouldn't it be nice if I did get to 'swan' about the shows.  Instead, it's a palava of rushing, taxi-searching, running, panting and sweating to try and see as much as possible.  To 'swan' about shows, you'd have to be selective and do maybe two or three a day.  Still,Gucci Shoulder Bags, cramming my days until I'm all achey by the end of the day has its rewards - namely how LFW has really done it for me this time.  With hardly a duff show in my eyes, I come away brimming with excitement for the new season.  

Yesterday, I however was an antidote to the bright shine, colour and print of the shows.  A looooong night out/off meant hungover dressing in ten minutes, grabbing what was just 'there'.  Thankfully, it included this Christopher Kane jacket and comfy Miu Miu leggings that masqueraded as trousers.  

Tommystreet
(Photo by Tommy Ton for Style.com)

"I've always relied on the kindness of strangers" is the line I normally think about when grabbing outfit shots during fashion weeks as Steve is never with me (the day I bring a blogger's 'entourage' is the day I eat strong Stilton - as in NEVER).  Kris Atomic though isn't a stranger as such but it was the first time I met her yesterday even though I've long been a fan of her illustration/design/whole aesthetic thingy through her blog.  She's set up a standalone site for all her LFW reportage and here's some pics she took of me in my weary outfit.  Tommy Ton said that if I was to go to a funeral, this would be the outfit I'd wear.  Not sure what that says about me or the outfit.  

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(Photo by Kris Atomic - wearing Christopher Kane jacket, John Rocha headband, Marni t-shirt, Miu Miu leggings, vintage shoes, Miu Miu bag)

 

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Paper One Self

>> I was once again reminded of my severe lack of make-up knowledge once again at a consumer panel today where I may have fuffed it all up by not knowing what a 'primer' was.  Then I also remembered this Beauty category on the blog was also gathering dust again...

Eyelash range

Now, I know these Paperself lashes have had a good deal of press, both online and off but look upon this as scraping the barrel.  Plus... so many many reasons to love them...

... they're paper...

... they're paper because the founder of Paperself, Chunwei Liao grew up in a family who worked in the cardboard packaging industry...

... err... paper cutting is oh so...well... patriotic...

... the three motifs of the lashes are peonies, horses and peach blossoms (symbols of happiness, success and love respectively..)... I'm really showing my mother here that I did listen to her whenever she did tell me random tidbits like what's lucky, what's not and that it didn't in fact go in one ear and out the other...

... currently, they're also solely stocked at wonder-emporium Luna & Curious on Brick Lane and you can order through them online too... 

... it's surely far more amusing to see a horse or a peony drooping onto the top of your cheek or floating around in your soup than spidery lifelike falsies, should the eyelash application be a bit dodgy which inevitably, it always is in my case... 

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