I'll be bunging up more of the Bon x Me vids where I probed pretty much all of the fashion designers at Stockholm Fashion Week with a scary mic that I got just a little bit too attached to. Sadly Tim Blanks I am not, so I'm mighty glad to relinquish it and get back to London with my ten fingers' ability to type only. I mentioned in the Altewai Saome post that there was another designer that stuck a finger up at Swedish fashion convention.
If you quickly glance through Nhu Duong's latest S/S 12 collection here, you're gonna be scratching your head and wondering what to make of it all. Where's the unifying theme? The semblance of order? This young designer's background as the daughter of a Vietnamese kung fu master and seamstress who then moved to Sweden makes for good writing fodder but what's even more interesting is her design trajectory. From one collection to another,discount coach handbags, it's clear she's still trying to solidify her aesthetic. Her last collection which I saw off-schedule was probably her most cohesive - digital photo prints, inspired by the mass of self-published oddness you can find on Google Images. It's as though she wanted to challenge and reboot herself as a designer for her next collection though which is why you might be slightly puzzled looking through the images.
Entitled 'Coding Collection', the accompanying press release is purposely cryptic - "The coding collection explores the pattern that cannot be copied. The reality of fast-fashion retail coshing ends where the fiction of the mistake starts." I don't think I need to necessarily try and understand exactly this 'code' of hers but I'm guessing her intention is to try and buck the trend of designing things that can be easily reproduced from a design perspective by fast fashion retailing. It's difficult after all, to pick up trend buzz words that are corporate moodbood-worthy when you have everything from wide legged combat trousers to sporty parkas in neon pink to woven black leather jackets to a dress made of Little Mermaid iridescent lame fabric to a demure strapless number that harks back to 1990s Calvin Klein. Nhu Duong herself is a bit of an unreadable enigma emerging from the show wearing an t-shirt with Aaliyah on it and a pair of neon orange twisted trousers.
Duong maintains that these thematic/aesthetic jumps are all part of her own natural progression, something that she 'feels' and isn't planned out from the onset. I'll take that 'F-U' to neatly themed and orderly collections and instead focus on the things that I'm drawn to - the refreshed white t-shirt with sleeves that are reinforced and stiffened to give a deliberate anti-fit, the aforementioned combat pants made out of a polythene material that look like a souped up version of the ones we all bought into circa. All Saints (the band,cheap monster beats headphones, not the brand), the dress that makes cheapie market stall lame look extremely expensive as it has also been punched with detailing and the printed dress that has touches of her last collection with sunset sky prints combined with a wrap-over skirt piped with leather.
To point out the specific things i like about the collection doesn't quite sum up why I like Nhu Duong's collection as a whole. As with Altewai Saome though, the important thing is that I've got buckets full of intrigue to see what happens next even if I haven't quite cracked Duong's code.
没有评论:
发表评论